125 years are a long time.
Since Vogue published the first issue of her journal more than a century ago in 1892, America has undergone 22 presidents, giving women the right to vote, banning the production of alcoholic beverages, again alcoholically legal, adapted to the Introduction of microwave, television, computer and Internet in their daily lives, gone to the moon … They catch our drift.
And yet, under these circumstances, some progress has developed at an icy pace. After all, it was only the 21
Progress in the Halls of The offices of Vogue have also moved at an unusually slow pace. It would take 82 years for Beverly Johnson to become the first black model gracing the cover, and another 15 before a model of Puerto Rican origin Talisa Soto would emerge Latin audience. In the same year, a year after Vogue editor-in-chief extraordinaire Anna Wintour 's now-30-year term, would be the first model of the Color to decorate the cover of the revered September issue.
And yet, despite all these premieres, it is not exactly as if a floodgate of racial diversity had been opened in the magazine. Since Campbell's September issue in 1989, only three other colored women have moved in: Halle Berry in 2010, Joan Smalls (shares her front page with Cara Delevigne and Karlie Kloss ) in 2014 and Beyoncé in 2015. That was & # 39; s. No Latin models have made the cut and do not even bring us about models of Asian origin in the gears. (Do you know that in 125 years only one person graced the front page of the magazine? It was the Chinese model Liu Wen and like Smalls she had to share her cover for March 2017 – with six other models.) [19659006ItisallthemoreimportantthatQueenBey'sreturntothecoveroftheSeptember2018issuejustreleasedNotonlydoesherrepeatintermsofrepresentationforcoloredwomenreachacoolfifthplacebutaveryimportantbehind-the-scenesfactoraturningpointforpublicationForthefirsttimeinthehistoryof Vogue her cover was photographed by an African-American. Yes, you read that correctly. first time
For the shoot, the magazine commissioned the 23-year-old photographer Tyler Mitchell they had become aware of when they photographed weapons lawyers for a teen Vogue At the beginning of this year. And while the rumor mill before the release, with the idea that Wintour had given Beyoncé full control of the cover shoot and subsequent story, probably including Mitchell's commitment, the official story was a little different.
In an interview with Business of Fashion, Wintour turned to the rumors, claiming: "The concept and the photographer were completely Vogue 's, especially Raul's." She referred to Condé Nast's creative director ( Vogue ) Raul Martinez . It was Martinez who sparked Mitchell's teen Vogue work, according to the story, which earned him a spot on the shortlist of Beyoncé featured photographers, who agreed to have him immediately, both his talent and that with the Decision associated historical impact. (As for Beyoncé's "in her own words" cover story at Wintour's end, she countered: "Like the last time and the previous time, there was a lot of discussion on how best to tackle this, who better, over Beyoncé as Beyoncé? ")
" Until there is a mosaic of perspectives coming from different ethnic groups behind the lens, we will continue to have a close approach and a view of what the world actually looks like. Why did I want to go with it working on this brilliant 23-year-old photographer Tyler Mitchell, "Beyoncé, as stated Clover Hope explains in the cover story.
Tyler Mitchell // Vogue
As she argues in the article, people in power start hiring and occupying people who are not looking closely, sounding and coming from the same places like them, "they will never have a greater understanding of other experiences than themselves. They will employ the same models, curate the.
With the urge for a greater representation of various voices in front of the camera in Hollywood, the urge behind the lens must grow, too Writing rooms and in the boardroom, and his moments like this, whoever suggests them and no matter how late they may feel, can bring about real change.
"There was a ladder for the people who came before me and now gives it's a ladder – it's just a new ladder, "Mitchell explains in a Vogue profile his own. "I want to open the eyes of children who are younger than me and show them that they can do it."
Vogue took here a huge step of his own progress ladder. And they should be praised for that. Hopefully it will not take another 125 years until the next.