KAILUA, Hawaii: Will Rozier could not sleep on Thursday night, not because the wind and rain of Hurricane Lane hit his home in Hawaii, but because he wanted to surf the huge waves that rolled to one of his favorite beaches on the Big Island  "I could not even sit down and have breakfast, I had to throw everything in my car and drive down to the beach and eat it while watching the waves and the rising sun," Rozier said. 24, a resident of the southernmost island of the archipelago, who has been surfing since his childhood.
Once or twice a decade, a tropical storm or hurricane hits the Hawaiian Islands with heavy water surges, creating perfect waves to test the courage of the legions of seasoned surfers who call the islands home.
For tourists and less experienced surfers, the waves may be deadly, and state beaches were closed on Friday over Hawaii when the hurricane hit the islands with heavy wind, torrential rain on the d) heavy sea, even though the storm over the course of the storm Day was steadily weakening.
"If you're inexperienced, you want to stay away from these surf breaks, but for all of us out there we're running to the ocean," Rozier said an instructor and guide for surf shop Kona Boys after taking a break from Kona Pier said, had first appeared in four years.
Honolulu Mayor Kirk Caldwell said lifeguards were in place with megaphones, ordering some of them on jet skis, people from the beach and out of the water.
He said there are fewer surfers in the ocean on Friday than on Thursday, but he's particularly worried about the safety of tourists who tend to be less experienced surfers and themselves can endanger.
& # 39; RAGING SOON & # 39;
On Maui, further north in the island chain, Debra Frey joined her surf school as she waited for the storm. Although the authorities closed the beaches for everyone, she guessed that her teachers were surfing.
"They can not, but if you know how, you go out and surf," said Frey, who owns the Waves Hawaii Surf School in Kihei on the south coast of Maui. "I'm sure they're out there."
As the storm headed north, surfers in Kailua on the east side of Oahu began to watch waves rise.
"It's going to be raging soon," said US Army veteran Keith Sarji, 53, who said he went surfing at the age of 50.
Derrick Grace, a 45-year-old US Army lawyer, rode a few waves as long as he could.
"This is my second break, it looks like a bit hurried," said Grace, who recently moved from Virginia to Hawaii.
In Waikiki, a Honolulu district that is world-famous for its surfing beach, waves were already powerful, and Gregg Stebbins, 60, a lifelong Florida surfer, chose to be careful and wait on the beach until the conditions set quieter.
"It would be stupid for me to go out there now," Stebbins said. Who travels for his interior and takes a surfboard with him. "If this wind subsides, I want to go out." By Friday afternoon, Lane had been downgraded to a Category 1 storm, the lowest ranked on the five-point Saffir-Simpson scale, with maximum sustained winds of 85 miles per hour (140 km per hour).
(Report by Diane Craft, Additional reporting and writing by Andrew Hay of Taos, New Mexico, edited by Frank McGurty, Toni Reinhold)