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Anthony Bourdain's love letter to Mexico



Anthony Bourdain was more than a cook writer and a celebrity of television . He was also a defender of the Latin American immigrants especially the Mexican whose work was essential to the American culinary industry.

"The truth is that the entire industry from the restaurants, not just in New York, but across the country, would suddenly collapse if not the Mexican and Central American workforce was behind it," said Bourdain during an interview with the AP in 2015.

The star of CNN's " Parts Unknown " was found dead on Friday in his room at the hotel in France where he posted a sequel to his series on culinary traditions worked the world. He had 61

years . The chain said it was found by his friend and colleague Eric Ripert in the French city Strasbourg and that committed suicide on the leash of his bathrobe .

"It's all a big lie, a hypocrisy, if you're a young white boy from the suburbs studying in a culinary institute and entering a restaurant, the person who will teach you everything will not be the cook but the Mexican cook who's been there for years, and it's also very likely that the white boy will soon be promoted over that Mexican cook, "Bourdain said in the same interview after the death of his friend and successor, the Mexican's Carlos Llaguno .

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The cook and presenter was a recognized supporter of Latino migrants in the US, whom he considered an integral part of the culinary industry in this country

  Anthony Bourdain, defender of migrants   Anthony Bourdain, the defender of migrants

According to a study by the Organization of Help for Restaurant Workers Restaurant Opportunities Centers United there are more than two million jobs in this sector United States .

Although the colored workers, that is the non-whites, represent 45% of all employees in the industry, they suffer from discrimination and occupy almost no positions A customer whose salary is higher condemned the October report.

This is a topic that "makes me mad," said more than once the famous cook and critic neoyorq uino .

As part of the premiere of the ninth season of its program " Parts Unknown ," Bourdain shot a Los Angeles program on Latin American cuisine in 2017, in which, in clear words, reference to President of the United States Donald Trump – though he does not mention it – pointed out that "the recent comments in my country that the Mexicans rapists are called drug dealers, it causes me to turn me off Shame handed over. "

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The star chef and globetrotter drank pulque, ate crumbs in Tepito and fell in love with La Guerrerense toast

  Anthony Bourdain's Travels in Mexico   Anthony Bourdain's Travels in Mexico

This is the letter published in 2014, with which Bourdain expressed his love and admiration for Mexico his people, his story and his Cuisine:

Americans love Mexican food. We consume large quantities of nachos, tacos, burritos, cakes, enchiladas, tamales and everything that seems Mexican. We love Mexican drinks and cheerfully eat large quantities of tequila, mezcal and Mexican beer each year. We love Mexicans, we certainly employ many of them.

Despite our ridiculously hypocritical attitude towards immigration, we demand from the Mexicans that they cook a large part of our food, that they grow the ingredients we need to do to clean our homes, our grass to cut, to wash our dishes, to take care of our children.

As every cook will tell you, our whole economy of services-the shops of such restaurants as we know-it would collapse overnight in most US cities without Mexican workers.

Some, of course, claim that Mexicans "steal American jobs". But in two decades as a chef and employer I never had an American boy come through my door and apply for a dishwasher position, a janitor or even a job as a pre-cooked food chef. Mexicans do a lot of the work in this country that Americans probably will not do.

We love Mexican drugs. Maybe not for you personally (reader), but for "us", as a nation, we certainly consume huge amounts of them and travel distances and make extraordinary expenses to get them.

We love Mexican music, beaches Mexican, Mexican architecture, interior design, Mexican films

So why do not we love Mexico?

We raise our hands and we shrug shoulders before anything happens and continues to happen on the other side of the border. Maybe we are ashamed. After all, Mexico has always been there for us to help meet our darkest needs and desires.

Whether dressed as fools, drunk and sunburnt at Cancún at the spring break, with weights at strippers in Tijuana or lost with Mexican drugs, we rarely have our best behavior in Mexico. (The Mexicans) They saw many of us at our worst moment. They know our darker wishes.

To satisfy our appetite, we spend thousands and millions of dollars on Mexican drugs every year, while spending thousands upon millions of millions of dollars to prevent them from reaching us.

The impact on our society can be seen everywhere. Whether it's children falling asleep from an overdose in Vermont, gang violence in Los Angeles, Detroit neighborhoods with the naked eye. However, what we do not see from what we have not really perceived, and that does not seem to be particularly disturbing to us, is the 80,000 deaths in Mexico, only the most innocent victims in recent years. Eighty thousand families directly affected by the so-called "war on drugs".

Mexico. Our brother from another mother. A country with which, whether we like it or not, we are relentlessly and deeply involved, in a close but often uncomfortable embrace. It's beautiful It has some of the most beautiful beaches on earth. Mountains, desert, jungle. Beautiful colonial architecture and a tragic, elegant, violent, ridiculous, heroic, regrettable and heartbreaking story. The Mexican wine regions challenge the beauty of Italian Tuscany. Its archaeological sites: the remains of great empires that are second to none.

And as much as we think we know and love it, we barely scratched the surface of what Mexican food really is. , There is no cheese melted on chips. It is not easy or easy. It's not just part time eating. In fact, it is old, even older than the great cuisines of Europe and often very complex, refined, subtle and refined.

A real mole sauce, for example, can take days of preparation, a balance of fresh ingredients (always fresh), carefully prepared by hand. It could, if it were, be one of the most exciting kitchens on the planet if we took care of it.

The old school cooks in Oaxaca produce some of the most difficult and nuanced sauces in gastronomy. And some of the new generations, many of whom have been trained in the kitchens of the United States and Europe, have returned home to take Mexican food to new and exciting new heights.

It is a country to which I feel especially connected and grateful. In almost 30 years of professional cooking, almost always when I entered a new kitchen, it was a Mexican who looked after me, supported me, taught me, and was there when cooks like me escaped with a background like mine, Surfing or just "getting lost".

I was lucky enough to see where some of these cooks come from to go home with them. In small, mostly female-inhabited cities where families gather at night on the city's phone kiosk and wait for calls from their husbands, children and brothers who have worked in our kitchens in the cities of the North.

I've been lucky enough to see where this affinity comes from. Mothers and grandmothers watch as they prepare with pride and true love many delicious things mine

In years of television in Mexico it is one of the places where we as the production team are happiest when the day is up is over. We'll gather around a street stand and order soft tacos with fresh, light and delicious sauces: we'll drink cold Mexican beer, smoke mezcal, and listen with wet eyes to the sentimental songs of street musicians. We'll look around and see for the hundredth time what a special place it is.

The commonly accepted idea is that Mexico will never change. This is irreversibly corrupt from top to bottom. That it is pointless to resist, to worry or to hope for a happier future. But there are heroes out there refusing to accept it. In this episode of "Parts Unknown" we find some of them. People who face overwhelming handicaps demand accountability and demand change, at great and even terrible personal costs. This program is for you.

* With information from agencies

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