Pedro Cruz / AP
Take a good, long look at the picture above.
On the face of the wave, veined as it is with small lines of white, there is a thin line that stands out from the others. There, diagonally in the middle of the frame, is the trail of a man so small compared to the giant he drives that he is undetectable to the naked eye.
This is Rodrigo Koxa riding a wave in Nazaré last November
On Saturday, the World Surf League's Big Wave Awards in 2018, the Brazilian surf wave was declared the greatest surfer of all times – with no end 80 feet. That surpassed the previous record – 78 feet from Garrett McNamara, again in Nazaré in 2011 – and of course won Koxa as the night's prize for the biggest wave of the year.
Watch the entire journey at or below this link. Or, if you like, skip below to see the other winners of the Big Wave Award.
Koxa said that it seems to have been as unprecedented as the wave some he already guessed what was in store even before a jet ski whirled him right in the maw of this Goliaths hurled.
"I had an amazing dream the night before, in which I talked to myself, 'You have to go straight, you have to go straight down, I did not really know what it meant, but I assumed that someone spoke to me, "he said, according to Surfline.
"When I heard my wave, I let go of the rope, I started to use my splint to rock my shoulder, but then I realized that if I used my splint, I would never get deep, and then I remembered, "Go straight down." When I said it, I remembered my dream, I turned around and I almost fell, but then I got my feet back and went super fast, I've never had such a big wave where I did not use the rail at all. "It's just unbelievable."
Well, you might have some questions – aside from the obvious questions of where exactly the instincts of the world-class surfer have gone.
The first of these being: How are these waves measured at all? It's not as if on that fateful November 8, Koxa had a mountain-sized bar and a team of scientists in the lineup. [1 9659008] Here we refer to the Surfer Magazine, whose picture editor Grant is Ellis, is one of the Big Wave Award judges. Paraphrasing Ellis, the magazine describes "a rough science, but still a science":
"It starts with a handful of big-wave statesmen and experts gathering in a room in Huntington Beach, [Calif.,] discussing each of the nominated rides at last and then the trusty ol 'ruler and break calipers.With oversized images of the waves and the known heights of each surfer, they appreciate the surfer squatting height the moment the photo was taken, create a scale that they then you can use it to determine the total height of the wave, from the trough to the lip, and then, Bingo – you have a fairly accurate measurement on a monster wave. "
And if Wondering why the gentle roles in your home break – should you be so happy to live on the beach – you will not see anything like Nazaré or his other famous Big Wave brothers, like Nor California Mavericks or Hawaii Pe'hihi, perhaps better known as Jaws Scott Neuman of NPR was helpful enough to explain it in 2013.
The Key at Nazaré, as with some other spots, rests on what is underneath the wave that runs along the surface – a deep underwater canyon that concentrates the power of the waves, then it beats them in suddenly shallow water.
"Well, first you have really deep water," said Micah Sklut, forecaster and founder of Swellinfo.com, Scott at the time, "and then as it nears the shore, it becomes very shallow, and that allows the Waves, suddenly really, really big to climb. "
Of course, Koxa was not the only surfer to win a Big Wave Award on Saturday. Breathtaking rides from several other surfers also deserve honor. This includes prizes for the best overall performance, the best paddle (for paddling in the wave instead of a jet ski) and of course the best wipeout.
Luckily you can all see below and all view the nominees here. YouTube